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Aunt Norie’s Sewing Room

By Eleanor Mckee - | Aug 10, 2005

Nelda measured carefully and bought a pattern that said it was those same measurements.

“But it’s not,” she said. “It just doesn’t fit and feel right.”

The first thing to consider are those seam allowances. Did you use up, or overuse those seam allowances shown on the pattern? If you haven’t, then you’ve changed the size of the pattern. To see what I mean, check or buy one of those three-sizes-in-one patterns, a blouse perhaps that you’ll use several times as your daughter grows up.

Now see how very little added changes the size of the pattern, noting the point at the underarm at the neck and shoulders and how each advance in size tapers to these points.

This answers her next question.

“I measured a 14 and it’s mostly too big, should I just buy a size 12 pattern?” she asked.

The answer is no. Not if you measured correctly. Take those measurements over correctly fitted undergarments. Then, measure across the high point (bra) for bust size to 9 inches below the waist line or the largest part of the hips.

Read the tape measure and follow it.

What you probably did was not use the full allowance of the seam allowances. Be very careful to pin the pattern on, then cut right on the seam allowance lines. Next, stitch on those lines also.

Study and know what all of the pattern markings mean. Being sure you lay the pattern on the grain line, the skirt pieces being the most important I

Think. A skirt cut off grain will never hang right.

Another great tip here might be, don’t let your fabric hang off the edge of the table as it hangs there — it’s also stretching. Instead, rest the bulk of the extra fabric on a chair back or other object such as the ironing board.

This will allow the fabric you are cutting to lie in a relaxed position. Pin carefully, cut your notches, mark any darts, etc., as you cut.

I was so glad to hear you are having fun with your machine.

There’s lots of back-to-school sewing going on right now.

Cut your thread on a slant for easier threading of the needle.

Love and God bless you all.

— Aunt Norie, P.O. Box 265 Tonganoxie, 66086; auntnorie@bdc.net